In this video , I show you how to set a River Birch tree diagram , but these basic principle apply to nearly anytree , regardless of cultivar .
Some additional info on planting this Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree :
Many River Birch trees have multiple short pants – this particular cultivar has only one trunk .
I plant in mid - September when the risk of red-hot days still linger . We had aheatwavethis yr of temperatures over 100 degrees for a sustained period , and this tree diagram was sitting in a container at the glasshouse the intact time , but it still looks good . In the fall , you could get some really angelical deals on greenhouse products , as they want to move them off their pile – I paid half price for this tree and had it delivered at no additional charge . to boot , imbed in the crepuscle is preferred to spring planting , as the quick , dry soil and less threat of sudden , uttermost heat gives Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree ancestor plenty of opportunity to originate .
That means that the tree is root - bound , which send up a red fleur-de-lis that it ’s been in the container too long . It will call for some TLC before and after I engraft it . One whole step I do n’t show in the video is loosening the radical from the planting medium . When I remove the tree diagram from the container , the ascendant were really hard to loosen , specially near the bottom . I used a three - prong garden cultivator and gently dug in between the roots and the planting spiritualist to loosen thing up as much as potential without damaging the root . This should allow water and nutrients to penetrate and stimulate fresh root growth . This step isessentialwhen planting any variety of tree orshrubwhich is source - tie .
My house ( and neighborhood ) sits on top of very alkaline mud . Dig deeply enough ( and sometimes not very deep at all ) and you ’ll find flushed clay that ’s almost as punishing as a brick – literally .
Backfill is what you put back in after the Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree is in the hole . That ’s a somewhat practiced linguistic rule of thumb – it all depends on your soil . When you put the backfill in the hole , do it in alternating layers of soil and compost . After each layer , fill the hole all the path to the top with water ( mildly ) and let it drain . When you ’ve layered the compost and soil to within an in of the top , press the crap down with your metrical unit and make it nice and cozy ( do n’t compact it ! ) to work out any gaps between the root ball and the dirt . note of hand : As of 2020 , horticulturists now recommend that you only add the original soil back into the planting hole and layer the compost on top . This advance better stem growth beyond the planting hole .
This serves to compile urine , stop runoff , and feed the roots . verify the watershed is level all the way around so water does n’t go and pool on one side . allow the basin open for about one month until you see signs of root growth . patently , you wo n’t see the actual roots growing , but you will be capable to see healthy green leaves on the tree , new buds , newfangled leafage , and just a more often than not salubrious , sturdy - looking tree .
